For such a large city, Palermo has a dearth of nightlife. In the hot summer months, the townspeople parade along the waterfront of Mondello Lido to cool off. Although they are improving somewhat, many Palermo areas with bars and taverns (such as La Kalsa or Alberghiera) are not safe for walking around at night. And some of the bars and taverns in the medieval core of Palermo have the lifespan of sickly butterflies. The safest places for drinking, making conversation, and meeting like-minded companions are the many bars in the deluxe and first-class hotels. They are also the most sanitary.

The liveliest squares at night -- and the relatively safest because lots of people are there -- are Piazza Castelnuovo and Piazza Verdi. Another "safe zone" is a pedestrian strip flanked by bars and cafes, many with sidewalk tables, along Via Principe di Belmonte, lying between Via Roma and Via Ruggero Settimo. Some of these bars have live pianists in summer. If you like the sound of things, drop in for a glass of wine or a beer or two.

If you're interested in the arts and cultural venues, stop by the tourist office and pick up a copy of Palermo & Provincia Live, which documents cafes or other venues offering live music in summer.